For the first time, Tajikistan will be represented at one of the world’s four major fashion weeks — New York Fashion Week. Designer Nafisa Imranova, founder of the ZHIWJ brand, will present her collection on the prestigious international runway.

Imranova is a graduate of the Academy of Design in Singapore. She previously participated in a closed Jimmy Choo show in Kuala Lumpur and showcased her collections in Paris. The New York show marks a new stage in her career and the first-ever participation of a Tajik brand at NYFW.

Alongside Paris, Milan, and London, New York Fashion Week shapes the global fashion agenda. Participation provides designers with access to international buyers, leading fashion editors, and major retailers, often serving as a gateway to global markets.

The participation was sponsored by AN Group, with support from Tajikistan’s Ministry of Culture. Organizers say the partnership highlights the strategic importance of promoting the country’s cultural potential internationally.

Imranova’s show is scheduled for February 16, with the first runway images expected shortly thereafter.

How the brand was selected

The opportunity came through Flying Solo, a platform operating under the umbrella of New York Fashion Week that supports independent designers through its boutiques and international sales channels. Representatives of the platform contacted ZHIWJ after discovering the brand on Instagram. “At first, I thought it was a joke,” the designer recalls.

She was later invited to complete a detailed application outlining the brand’s development, international experience, media coverage, mission, and values.

Imranova highlighted her education in Singapore, participation in the Jimmy Choo show, and her presentations in Paris. However, she says the brand’s social mission ultimately played a decisive role.

ZHIWJ works with women who were unable to complete their schooling, teaching them craftsmanship skills and enabling them to earn income, including from home. Women with disabilities are also involved in embroidery work carried out remotely.

Preserving Tajik cultural heritage is another key pillar of the brand. “Every ornament carries meaning and philosophy. It is the legacy of our ancestors,” Imranova says.

The brand also prioritizes sustainability, working with upcycling and recycled materials. Up to half of its collections are created from reimagined or recycled garments. ZHIWJ has collaborated with international organizations, including UNICEF, and conducted workshops on sustainable fashion.

It was this combination of social responsibility, cultural identity, and environmental awareness that enabled the brand to pass the international selection process.

Preparing the collection

After her application was approved, Imranova faced a new challenge: creating eight new looks within a tight deadline, each accompanied by a detailed explanation of its concept and philosophy.

“The most nerve-racking stage was designing the collection. I usually create easily, but this time the responsibility felt overwhelming, and I went through a creative block,” she says.

Perfectionism and the desire to present flawless work on an international stage made the process particularly intense. Support from her family and strong personal focus helped her complete the collection on time.

The designer drew inspiration from traditional elements — braided hairstyles of Tajik women, layered garments, headscarves, and national ornaments. “I wanted to combine the image of a modern Tajik woman with elements of historical costume — to create a synthesis of East and West,” she explains.

Will Tajik trends reach the West?

Imranova believes there is genuine Western interest in Eastern aesthetics but says Tajik designers must work harder to promote themselves internationally.

Brands from neighboring countries are currently more visible on global platforms, while Tajik designers rarely appear on major runways. Yet distinctive elements such as chakan embroidery and Pamiri and Sughdian ornaments could attract strong international interest if presented in a contemporary context.

“It is important for each designer to have a clear brand DNA and maintain uniqueness rather than copy others. Only then will international audiences begin to recognize and appreciate Tajik traditions,” she says.

For Imranova, ZHIWJ’s participation in New York Fashion Week goes beyond a single runway show. It represents a strategic opportunity for Tajikistan’s fashion industry to present itself on the global stage, highlight its cultural heritage, and lay the groundwork for broader international recognition.

Polygamy is a criminal offense in Tajikistan. Nevertheless, many men and women continue to enter into second marriages — typically religious unions (nikoh) that are not officially registered with the state.

The reasons why women agree to become second, third, or fourth wives have been widely covered by various media outlets, including Asia-Plus. The risks associated with such arrangements have also been discussed. Yet for many, traditional norms continue to play a decisive role.

Why do women become second wives?

According to reports by Deutsche Welle (DW), the spread of polygamy in recent years has been linked to the growing influence of religion in society, as well as large-scale labor migration, with many men leaving the country in search of work.

High poverty levels and limited employment opportunities are also significant factors. Women themselves often cite economic hardship as a key reason.

Bunafsha was widowed at 18 when her husband was killed in Russia, where he had gone to work. She was left alone with two young children. In her late husband’s family home, she says, she effectively lived as a servant, trying to avoid being reproached for being a burden.

Four years later, her father-in-law arranged her second marriage, citing religious norms. She was not allowed to take her children with her. The first months were extremely difficult, she recalls — she cried constantly and even fell ill. Over time, her relationship with her new husband improved, although his first family lives separately and is unaware of her existence.

Psychologist Firouza Mirzoyeva told DW that for many women in rural areas who lack higher education — and sometimes even secondary education — becoming a second wife is a means of financial survival. She noted that society often stigmatizes unmarried and divorced women.

“Even if a woman is successful and independent, society may not approve of her status. Some therefore agree to become a second or third wife in order to ‘legitimize’ their personal lives,” the expert explained.

Others say they made a conscious choice. Sitora, in an interview with Asia-Plus, said she does not feel ashamed of her status. Her two previous marriages did not bring her happiness, but in her current relationship — despite its unofficial nature — she says she feels loved and secure. For her, personal happiness outweighs public judgment.

Why do men take second wives?

According to experts, polygamy is more common among men with middle and higher income levels, including business figures and officials.

Sociologists note that traditional norms in Tajik society exert pressure not only on women but also on men. In particular, parents often play a decisive role in choosing a spouse for their sons.

“Frequently, the decision about marriage is made by parents. As a man grows older, he begins to make his own choices. In such cases, he either divorces and remarries or takes a second wife,” sociologist Gulnora Beknazarova told Asia-Plus.

In some instances, health issues may become a factor. In an interview with Current Time, a resident of Hisor named Sunatullo said that after the birth of their first child, his wife was unable to have more children and blamed him for it. He said he decided to “prove otherwise” by entering into a second marriage. He later admitted it was a mistake and was fined 50,000 somoni.

Another reason may be the absence of a male heir. In more traditionally oriented families, the birth of a son remains highly valued, and there is still a widespread belief that the child’s gender depends on the woman.

Some women believe that an additional motive behind polygamy is a man’s desire to “relax” away from household responsibilities and the demands of a large family in his first marriage.

Tahmina, a resident of Dushanbe, told Current Time that a second wife is sometimes perceived less as a partner in a full-fledged family and more as a source of companionship or leisure. According to her, some men are not interested in having children in a second marriage, preferring to keep such relationships less burdensome.

Finally, social imitation is also cited as a factor. In certain circles, having multiple wives may be seen as a sign of status and financial capability — if a man can afford it, he may consider it acceptable.

Despite criminal liability for polygamy, religious marriages that are not officially registered continue to occur. Experts emphasize that the issue is complex, shaped by economic conditions, social stereotypes, education levels, and the ongoing transformation of traditional values.