The traditional culture of sumanak cooking in Tajikistan has been officially added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the UN cultural agency announced this week.
Sumanak, a sweet dish made from sprouted wheat, butter, and flour, is a key culinary and cultural element of the Navrouz (Nowruz) festival, symbolizing the arrival of spring, the renewal of nature, and the spirit of community. The sprouted wheat, known as sabza, represents rebirth and new life.
The labor-intensive process of making sumanak involves washing, roasting, and grinding wheat sprouts, then simmering the resulting juice for up to ten hours. This centuries-old tradition varies slightly across regions but remains deeply rooted in communal participation.
Typically prepared on the night of March 20–21, the cooking of sumanak is a festive, all-night event, predominantly led by women. Participants take turns stirring the large pot while singing traditional songs, playing the daf (a large frame drum), and dancing. One well-known Tajik saying chanted during the celebration goes: “Sumanak dar joushu mo kafcha zanem – digaron dar khobu mo dafcha zanem”
(Sumanak is boiling and we are stirring it; others are sleeping and we are playing the daf).
A global recognition of heritage
Since its inception in 2003, UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List has recognized traditions and practices that reflect the diversity and richness of global cultural expressions. From food and dance to wedding customs and craft techniques, the list now includes hundreds of traditions from around the world.
So far, 185 countries have signed the UNESCO convention safeguarding intangible cultural heritage. Nominations are submitted by countries and reviewed by a 24-member committee elected from among UNESCO’s member states.
In assessing entries, the committee looks for community involvement, gender inclusivity, environmental sustainability, and broad cultural support. For this year’s nominations, a wide array of community groups — including swim clubs, choirs, and local cooperatives — supported their countries’ applications.
Tajikistan’s successful nomination of sumanak underscores both its cultural significance and the importance of preserving culinary traditions that bring communities together.
